Rodia Towers in Watts Los Angeles

Finally…a visit to Rodia’s Towers, an homage to Marco Polo and a desire to be remembered

sabata simon rodia in work clothes
This painting was based on a photograph of Rodia taken in the late 1940s or 1950s. Among other things he was a tile-setter.

Sabato ‘Simon’ Rodia was a small man, only 4 foot 11 inches tall.  Somewhere inside him, however, was a goal to ‘do something big’ so he would be remembered, he said in an interview in late life.  He succeeded, although he may have doubted it for a while after he finished the amazing Towers in his back yard in Watts and then in 1958 moved away, never to return.

watts towers behind fence
During his lifetime, the Towers were repeatedly vandalized by neighborhood kids. Now a high fence protects this massive structure, which was also Rodia’s home.

In another interview Rodia explained that the towers were inspired by Marco Polo’s ship. For whatever it is worth, Rodia was illiterate. He immigrated to the U.S. when young and never attended school, so it is unlikely he ever read the Polo book, but he was active in the Italian-American Society and was familiar with the great men of Italy.  The three tallest towers represent masts of Polo’s ship.  In one photo, below, you can see the ‘sail’; in another one the ‘helm’.

A few years later after his death at age 80 the small house on the property burned down and the City of Los Angeles issued a demolition order for Rodia’s work, but intervention by then-student-later-film-editor William Cartwright, his wife, Carol, and actor Nicholas King saved the massive sculpture.  They purchased the entire property from the neighbors who owned it.

Today, the Watts Towers are recognized as an American treasure, being listed in the National Register for Historic Places, but it is having to struggle these days to get enough funds from the City of Los Angeles Cultural Affairs Department to support its operations.

Here are some photos I took on a hot, glaringly bright Sunday in late September.

The front door to the property. Rodia's small house  lay inside the gate. His neighbors back in the 33 years he took to build the Towers were mostly puzzled. Some though he was craxy. Some thought he was an atist.
The front door to the property. Rodia’s small house lay inside the gate. His neighbors during the 33 years he took to build the Towers were mostly puzzled. Some though he was crazy. Some thought he was an artist.  History has spoken: Rodia was an artist.
mailbox watts towers
One of two mailboxes bracketing the front door.
He built and oven in which he cooked bread and melted glass.  The green glass iimbedded in this panel are melted 7-Up bottles.  The blue are from Milk of Magnesia bottles.
He built an oven in which he cooked bread and melted glass. The green glass embedded in this panel came from broken and partially melted 7-Up bottles. The blue are from Milk of Magnesia bottles, plus tile and broken china.
the wedding cake at watts towers
This is called the ‘wedding cake’. In his later years Rodia conducted wedding ceremonies, which were not recognized officially. The tiles came from the period of time when he worked for Malibu Tiles. He was fired for taking home too many tiles.  Can’t blame him; the original Malibu tiles are gorgeous.
roai's tools to build towers
On one panel he created imprints of the tools he used to build the towers. The seashells were gathered from the beach near Wilmington. The lava rock came from out in the desert.
patterned concret panels watts towers
Rodia worked for a construction company laying concrete and his skills show in the patterns on walls and floors throughout.
sails between masts watts towers
The ‘sail’ between the two towers also added strength and stability. It has been repeatedly tested by engineers who are amazed by this amateur construction.
helm steering wheel watts towers
The circular object is the helm to ‘steer’ Rodia’s gigantic sculpture, which faces east toward Italy.