Belcompo Meat market Los Angeles

Before and After: the amazing gentrification of the Grand Central Market in downtown Los Angeles

Grand Central Market tables 2011
In 2011 the walls had been brightly painted and most of the people eating lunch seemed to be blue collar workers.

I first went to the Grand Central Market in downtown L.A. back in the mid 1970s while I was freelancing for a couple of the big department stores that remained in the old heart of the city.  We went there once for tacos for lunch and I’m willing to bet that Tumbras Tacos, which has survived the recent gentrification of GCM, was probably where we bought lunch.

There was another taco place–I think it was called Tacos al Carbon–nearby which had much better tacos so I don’t think we went back to GCM.  Shortly after that I landed a job writing copy for a company in the mid-Wilshire district and GCM vanished from my mind. It did not vanish from the minds of Ira and Adele Yellin who purchased the building in 1984.

Decades passed and in 2011 I went to GCM to take photos for this blog.  While it had recently been brightly painted and new red and black chairs had been added, the overall scene was so sad, so desolate, that I decided not to post the photos.  Few people were there at lunchtime and there was vacant stall after vacant stall throughout the market. Most of the people were obviously at the lower end of the income scale.

empty stall 2011 Grand Central market
One of many vacant stalls in the Grand Central Market in downtown Los Angeles in 2011. They are all filled today.

By 2014 there had been a radical change. Eating places like Eggslut and Wexlers Deli were thriving.  The customers were a mix of office and blue collar workers.  By 2016 there wasn’t a vacant space in the huge market and the place was jammed with Millennials who have moved into downtown Los Angeles. How jammed?  I counted 61 people standing in line to order at Eggslut! Outdoor tables under fire-engine red umbrellas have been added to a pocket street park on the Broadway side of the building. And they now have entertainment some evenings. And in 2017 the Yellins sold it to Adam Daneshgar, a local L.A. investor.

So here are some of the photos I took in 2011 and others taken last weekend.

Meat Market 2011 Grand Central Market
Nothing exemplifies the change at GCM as well as the meat market. In 2011 this photo, above, was the meat market– just one case with cheap cheap meat.
meat Market 2016 Grand Central Market
By 2016 the low cost meat market had vanished and was replaced with long cases overflowing with expensive fresh meat and gourmet sausages at Belcampos.
Eggslut Grand Central Market
Eggslut has a prime location at the Broadway entrance and an absolutely unforgettable name for a egg and sandwich shop. The sign on the wall states that they are now hiring, if you’re unemployed!
Making pasta at Knead
Pasta is made fresh daily at Knead, one of the newer eating establishments in GCM.
artisan pickles at Grand Central Market
What can I say–artisan pickles for $11.35 is a product that clearly is appealing to the affluent Millennial crowd, rather than the blue collar people who still shop downstairs at the Discount Store.
Grand Central Market Discount Store
As businesses fled from downtown Los Angeles in the mid-20th Century, people at the lower end of the economic scale moved into the central city. Many are now being forced out by gentification. In 2016 this store supplies alot of their household needs including colorful flip-flops for $1.49.

Flip flops at Discount Store

Fruit vendor at Grand Central market
Enduring: a fruit vendor in his stall at Grand Central Market in 2011. Fruit and vegetable stalls are still there is 2016.  From its beginning in 1917 sales of local fruits and vegetables have been the heart of the market.
chilis, spices at Grand Central Market
Hot dried peppers and spices from around the world were on sale at Valerias in GCM in 2011 and still in 2016. Who knew there were so many chilis and peppers!